Don’t forget to check out the new 501xx Sizing Tool that will help you determine what size to buy! As always, for more articles on Jeans please see the Levi’s 501xx page.
Admittedly, buying the right size of 501xx Shrink to Fit jeans is not the easiest task since they change so drastically when they shrink. However, with a bit of practice and help a lot of the mystery and variability can be eliminated. Of course, like in many things, experience is king; luckily a pair of 501′s won’t break the bank if you mess up (usually about $35) so experimentation is always recommended. Getting the exact right size can make the difference between a pair that is ok and a pair that you love.
Personally, I haven’t found the official Levi’s recommendations (printed on the back pocket tag on a new pair) to be very helpful. Even after extended wear they never quite get to the right proportions for me. To make things more confusing, denim is fluid and changes slowly with age almost as dramatically as the first quick change. Continued wear and wash not only fades the jeans but inperceptively changes how they fit and change to shape your body.
So how can you possibly know what size to buy to get the perfect jean? Well, thanks to the experiences that people have shared here (and my own personal experience with 501′s), there are some guidelines that can be given. I’ve even written a tool to help you find the perfect firt before you purchase: check it out!
First, I recommend using your true waist size when you size a new pair of shrink to fits. Yes they will shrink a bit in the waist but they also stretch easily with very little wear. They may feel a bit tight when they first come out of the dryer after a wash but in just a couple hours will feel comfortable again. If you add inches to the waist, when they stretch they will get quite baggy.
Second with the length, I recommend +3 inches. They will seem quite long when you first buy them and try them on, but most of the shrinking occurs in the length. Three inches will ensure that they will be the correct length after shrinking them and you won’t have to tug on the inseam while they are wet to get the right length.
Another thing to remember is that 501 Shrink to Fits notoriously look slimmer than they feel. Keep this in mind, and try using a mirror or a trusted friend to judge how they look rather than just going on how they feel. They will also get slimmer with age so don’t give up on them too soon. Initial reports suggest that the new cut of the jean (since about summer 2008) is quite a bit slimmer even at the start; so if you haven’t tried the 501′s for a couple years, now may be a good time to try them again.
So check out the 501xx Sizing Tool and enjoy a new pair of perfectly fitted jeans!
I have tried 3 pairs of shrink to fits. I typically wear a 29×32 and I like the fit of the 511s or 510s with the tight thigh and seat, however I hate the tapering below the knee. I’ve tried to replicate this tight fit by starting with 28x34s which i could barely button, and spent 3 hours trying to stretch the waist with objects like a water bottle or soda can while I wore them dry to allow for a tight fit but comfortable waist. These were so uncomfortable that I tried 29s. The 29s were STILL too tight even with the stretching, and the rivets in the waist buttons even started ripping a little. So now I have a pair of 30x34s and I just set them in the sink with boiling hot water about 2 tablespoons of sea salt and a half cup vinegar. They have been marinating for about an hour and a half. I plan on leaving them for about 4 hours before putting them on and wearing them dry. Hopefully this results in the tight looking fit in the thigh and seat with a comfortable waist. Any recommendations?
Hi Ned,
I’m planning to buy a pair of 501xx stf. But since I live in Denmark – where they aren’t available – the sizing question is a bit more complicated than for Americans. I’m usually a size 29 or 30 in the waist (in Nudie, Acne ect.), but the actual measurement of my waist is 33 inches. I’m aware that even though many jeans, including 501xx stf, are labelled 30″ in waist they might actually measure 32″.
My first question to you is then what you would recommend me to buy? I want a pretty tight fit, so I’m thinking about buying a pair in size 30×36 (I normally wear 32 in lenght).
My second question is what you normally wear? I read that your 1-year projects are size 31×36, so I’m wondering if you normally wear 31″?
Thank you for this great site and for your help
/thomas
Hey there,
I just got a pair of selvedge stf’s. I’m wondering if, when I’m soaking in the tub, I should keep the cuffs rolled while I soak. Or will that affect the shrinking? Thanks!
Joe, unrolled is preferred. My only sources on this are online searching (e.g. StyleForum and Superfuture) and my personal experience. I’ve found it best to let the jeans dry before any cuffing. I’ve experienced no ill effects from it.
Since the jeans shrink most in the legs and not the waist, you want to let the denim room to do it’s thing naturally.
Personally, I even let the jeans down over my feet (pointed) while soaking in the tub. In other words, no stacking at the ankles. I have no idea if this effects the shrinking for the better; I just like the idea of having as little as possible to interfere with the shrinking.